Bio

Profile 

➔37 years old

➔Climbing for over two decades

➔Teacher of rock climbing

➔Positive, encouraging, and connecting

➔Youth and adults leader and program director

➔Naturalist and steward

➔Climbing conservationist

➔Grassroots community involvement

➔Professionalism

➔Climbing consultant

➔Indoor climbing gym experience

➔Certified and experienced indoor climbing gym route-setter

➔Longtime Outdoor industry affiliation and sponsored climber

➔Locally known and visible, dedicated

Happy waking up in to the frost at the climber's Hidden Valley
campground at Joshua Tree National Monument, California

Timeline

1975    Greg is born on July 7, 5am, at 8 ½ pounds.

1980    Wants to climb the cliff at Creve Coeur Lake, and poses for a photograph taken by his dad.

I love rock!

1990    Can be found walking and scrambling on blufflines and in and around caves and cliffs of Missouri.

1991    Begins climbing with a rope. Greg's dad discovers an indoor rock climbing gym in a vacant church in downtown St. Louis.

1991    Climbs at Johnson Shut-Ins in Missouri, and at Makanda, in southern Illinois.

Johnson Shut-Ins, Missouri

1991    Climbs all summer at Lumpy Ridge, Colorado, all day long, everyday.

Following Brad at Lumpy

1991    Climbs the South Face on the Petite Grapon in Rocky Mountain National Park with legendary guide, the late Brad Farnan, and two of his friends, Carl from Sweden, and Brad's ladyfriend. Brad introduced Greg to a wide range of climbing styles, areas, techniques, and climbs, and was a great mentor to Greg.

Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

1991    Climbs at Eldorado Canyon, Colorado and Lumpy Ridge, classics including The Bastille Crack, and others.

An unknown spire at the
Twin Sisters crag in RMNP

1991    Climbs his first boulder problems after a day of crack climbing at Lumpy Ridge, out in the meadows at Estes Park with Brad Farnan and Swede “Carl”. Greg doesn’t understand it just yet, bouldering, but never forgets the day.

1991    Climbs a 5.12 route on top-rope next to Cackle Crack at Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. Guide and traditional climbers made comment recognizing myself as a “new breed” of climber. Has been climbing less than a year.

1992    Greg and his dad take a trip to Joshua Tree, California. 

Dad at Joshua Tree

1992    Climbs his first leads, Pappa Woosley (5.10a) and a 5.10b roof crack at Hidden Valley Campground (both climbs at “J-Tree”) and “Knee-catcher” (5.6 off-width), at the Little Twin Owls of Lumpy Ridge, Colorado.

1992    Climbs the “Labadie Problem”, in Missouri, making the first ascent of the now cult-classic problem. Estimated rating: V5

Labadie, Missouri

1992    Tries sport climbing.

1992    Tries first competition, a local comp in St. Louis. Wins.

1992    Takes first road trips. Camps all summer long at the New River Gorge, WV.

At "The New"

Jackson Falls

Jackson Falls

1992    Leads his first 5.12s at the New River Gorge in West Virginia, and Jackson Falls, Illinois. Climbs numerous 5.12 routes all summer long.

1992    Climbs “Frankenstein” a steep boulder involving a series of one and two finger pockets at Wild Iris, Wyoming, on his first try. Is told by visiting 5.14 British rock climbers that he is “an incredibly talented boulderer”. “Onsighting” (first try with no knowledge of the route) this grade at the time wasn’t common. Greg begins to really become interested in bouldering, soon realizing the sheer and incredible joy he has already had in his bouldering experiences.

1993    Climbs his first 5.13 routes at Mount Charleston, Nevada and Rifle, Colorado.

1993    Wins the American Sport Climbing Federation Junior Regionals, in Ingomar, PA

1993    Onsights several 5.12d routes in New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah.

1993    Climbs 5.13s and a handful of 5.12 routes in a one day visit to Jackson Falls after road-tripping out west and just before packing to move away to college.

Early bouldering efforts at Jackson Falls

1993    Graduates high school with honors, and enrolls with a full fine art scholarship to the University of Arizona in Tucson.

Mt. Lemmon, 1993

1994    Begins competing in national events, finishing in the top ten finals field on his first national event (The American Sport Climbing Federation (ASCF) U.S. Nationals, in Tucson, AZ)

Rifle, 1994

1994    Climbs numerous 5.13 routes at Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado, American Fork, Utah, and other western limestone cragging destinations.

1994    Climbs the Mushroom Roof at Hueco Tanks (V8) 1st try. Flashes (first try) Sex After Death, and other V9s. Establishes a V10 at Hueco Tanks, “Bivy Boys” (original name), at the Martini Roof. Climbs other boulder problems rated V10-V12, including 2nd ascents of two new V10s.

At Hueco, 1994

A good time on a good classic at the Mushroom Roof,
before crash pads

1994    Quits school. Hits the road to climb.

1994    Begins workmanship as a certified routesetter through the original American League of Forerunners (ALF). Sets first regional comp in Louisville, Kentucky at Rocksport.

1994    Gets first sponsorship, internationally renown products Petzl/PMI, as well as Straight Up (climbing holds) out of Boulder, Colorado. (Sponsors to soon follow include Powerbar, Five Ten, Metolius, Mammut, and Kinnaloa, maker of the first bouldering pad ever. Greg lost this pad to desert wind while it was on top of his road trip mini-van).

1994    Visits Sheffield, England, in the Peak District, and trains alongside “S7 district” legends, including Johnny Dawes and others.

1995    Begins working at Mission Cliffs in San Francisco, promoted within 3 months months to Wall Manager.



1995    Repeats the unrepeated John Sherman's "Impossible Wall" at Mortar Rock, just next to Indian Rock in the Berkeley hills.

Donner Lake, 1995

1995    Climbs his first V10 and V11 first ascent boulder problems in California, as well as repeats other classics and climbs new ones at Donner Summit and Donner Lake and around the Lake Tahoe area.

1995    Course-sets the prestigious ASCF US Nationals at Mission Cliffs, in San Francisco, alongside climbing clothing company founder and Boulder legend, Christian Griffith and good friend Jake "the Snake" Slaney. Chris Sharma wins. Katie Brown wins. This was the year the youth broke through big from a long-term "older" field previously. Complete paradigm shifting event.

1996    Finger injury while on a road trip climbing 5.13+s and trying to redpoint a 5.14 at Rifle, Colorado. Takes time off climbing.

1996    Opens The Good Life Climbing Gym in St. Louis with friends. The gym will close its doors after a few years as business is difficult to maintain.

1996    Photographs and helps design an early catalog for Pusher, a company that made climbing holds and other climbing goods. Greg begins working as a graphic designer and photographer.

The Russian River

1999    Begins climbing again.

2000    Climbs in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows, California, rediscovering traditional climbing and bouldering.

2001    Visits France and climbs many sport routes on cliffs in Provence, over the waters of the Mediterranean, and in the mountain cliffs of les Haute-Alpes.

Montagne de Céüse

2004    More time in France climbing. This time, bouldering at world class area Fontainebleau in the forest just south of Paris.

2004    Marries in France. (Carries suit in backpack, camps at Fontainebleau just before arriving at the beautiful cathedral in Coutances.)

2005    Continues to climb in and around Boulder, Colorado, home while attending and finishing college at the University of Colorado at Boulder.

2006    Works on the first Reel Rock Tour, editing video, co-handling marketing, and graphic design.

2007    Divorces.

Back at The Buttermilks

2008    Re-visit roadtrip to Bishop, CA

Back "home" at the Townhouse Motel, Bishop, CA

2008    Moves back to Missouri. Lives for a short while in Makanda, Illinois soon to follow. Is very happy to be bouldering again!

Southern Illinois many years later...

2008    Begins exclusive bouldering throughout southern Illinois, revisiting, and marking a new paradigm and brand new effort with hard bouldering and new lines and area effort. 

2009    Hereditary toe condition begins to limit time on toes. Pain worsens. Develops and finesses his already very determined, dynamic style on rock. Luckily, steep bouldering doesn’t hurt the toes so bad!

2009    Longing and curious, mostly missing the New River Gorge, goes sport climbing at the Red River Gorge after not having tied-in for several years. Climbs poorly. Is convinced getting older and stronger at bouldering and spending time in more remote places and doing first ascents rather than going to “climbing areas” is where his interests are. Toes hurt, Greg starts to take his time walking in the forests, and the bouldering is great. Local Missouri legend and longtime friend Jim Thurmond reminds Greg, “you never used a rope anyway!” (Still wants to go back to the New though!)

2009    Re-visits Missouri for bouldering. (Greg had only visited Elephant Rocks twice in his past, ironically.) Discovers much unclimbed rock (on granite, rhyolite, and dolomite limestone) and joy in Missouri's wealth of geologic diversity.

2009    Begins a bouldering program for students at Saint Louis University. 

2010    Visits the massive boulders at Pawtuckaway in New Hampshire, boulders new first ascents with friends at Lake Champlain on the Vermont side, and boulders with best friend Dan on pudding stone behind the mall in Boston suburb. Loves it all. Climbs easy lines and very V-difficult lines with Dan.

"The Hunter" is the name of the climb.

2010    Creates several new V9s and V10s in southern Illinois, as well as several (as of now) unrepeated difficult lines up the “Ghost Boulder” at one of the legendary “Father of Bouldering” John Gill’s favorite areas. Greg has likely added the most difficult lines since Gill. 

2010    Climbs over 75 First ascents of new boulder problems and short solos in Missouri and Illinois, various difficulties, areas including the Shawnee National Forest, Mark Twain National Forest, Missouri Wilderness Areas, and state parks, most being in very remote and pristine locations, and some at popular climbing areas. 

"Black Dog Roof", great climb, great story. Thanks dogs!

Great night bouldering throughout the spring and summer

2010    Repeats a classic V10 in Missouri (Elephant Rocks) in near 90-degree heat.

2010    Takes his favorite (and only!) nephew Ian bouldering at Elephant Rocks. He loves it! And he is a natural! Ian looks forward to going climbing with “Uncle Greg” when visiting Missouri, and when Greg visits Ian in Colorado. (Ian’s other uncle soon begins climbing and takes Ian regularly, and Greg’s cousins are now interested in climbing too! All in the family!)

Great day at Elephant Rocks

Elephant Rocks, Missouri

The Jaggeds, St. Francois Mountains, Missouri

Missouri granite

2010    “Yes, you can!” Climb any three holds apart, any angle, any conditions, anytime), to a statement Greg jokingly and proudly made to a friend after doing a series of extremely difficult moves on a wall having a bouldering session. Greg is convinced is getting stronger and will climb unclimbed and very difficult lines.

2010    Continues to climb hard, train, have fun, share experiences, and introduce others to climbing, with a key emphasis on local bouldering and wilderness stewardship.

2011    Bilateral toe surgery, February. 6 months healing.

2011    (Looking ahead...) Recently, Greg has found many unclimbed boulders in his home of Missouri, and a new boulder with a very promising hard line he is seeking to get stronger for and a better climber to achieve. Aims to complete several new projects, and enjoy climbing with friends, family, and alone with nature. For just short of two years now, decides it is wonderful to do the first ascents of great problems and have so much virgin rock to climb. Greg also has plans to work with some local schools teaching children the rewards of outdoor bouldering.

Overheard

“Greg is the strongest climber to ever have come out of the Midwest.”—Longtime climbing partner, author, guide and friend to a new climber at an outdoor climbing rendezvous, 2009.

“Dude! You're Echelmeier? You're a legend!”―A Boulder Colorado climber upon meeting.

“Yes you can! (do any three moves in a row, any angle, any holds, any conditions anytime)―Friend, during a wall training session, 2010.

“Greg has just such a super underlying positive attitude.”—Founder and CEO of one of the world's first premiere climbing centers, now a 6-gym establishment in the greater San Francisco Bay Area.

“Good to hear from a southern climber who is interested in the same areas I was many moons ago . . . Keep it up!”

John

        (John Gill) ―Facebook, October 2010, comment by the legendary “Master of Rock”, after connecting online and having bouldered the hardest new lines at one of Gill's favorite places since his visits decades ago.

"I'm beginning to understand the true essence of setting. My mind is now finally open to new ideas and possibilities. This is all thanks to Gregory Alan Echelmeier"―Facebook, 2011, comment by a local strong climber and gym route-setter.