Friday, February 25, 2011

A Guidebook

I said I would never do this. But I figured my argument is closed. I am opposed to rock consumption, but not to select sharing to further consummate some great climbs and memories! I have a lot of friends who push climbing, and themselves (I hope you do, but remember, you can't test yourself, just push). Some wish for a guide. Understood. Look forward to a guidebook. It is select and for you.





The Manifesto we left blank. But it basically had to do with, do not consume rock. Climb rock. There is more than we can do alone. We will not name things stupidly, or we will not name at all. Ratings are hogwash. "Pathies" only read guidebooks and come to climbing areas with closed minds to fulfill comparative testing purposes. We love climbing. We will find more rock to climb. We have found great rock to climb. We have climbed great rock.



"We climbed so much here, and inbetween the lines "

This here is the Playboy Boulder. We must've climbed 10 new lines here in two days. The "Night at the Playboy Mansion" is the best. At other areas, we were afraid we'd die topping out, so we kept away from topping out, climbing several lines to wet, treacherous lips, then dropped. Nothing stopping us from climbing is very rewarding.



Some samples from the copy:


Greg and Joe's Select Highlights Guidebook to Southern Illinois and Missouri Backcountry Bouldering For The Not-so-Whiney But Adventureous Boulderer!



SOUTHERN ILLINOIS

Ghost Dance Canyon
"Crazy-maker" V6 Climb the seam. Big boulder problem. Harder variations start low (up to V10) , lowest best start with right in undercling crimp and left on iron edge crimp up and left to avoid breaking fragile iron holds.

The Towers
 "The Hunter" Start low. Don't fall in water. Great, fun, mbig moves. Rewarding, exhilariting top out on the FA. Ask Joe and I! Easy. V3



The Graveyard
 "Millipede" Unrated. Hard. Traverse roof left to right starting as if you were coming out of the ground, finish way out on right. Crazy moves!
Project. Jump start to edges has been done. Start on wall, go out roof. Is it possible? Perhaps! 

The Playboy Boulder
"Night at the Playboy Mansion" Sit-down climb up mini-face
2 problems around back on steep iron-laden walls. We loved it. Kinda loose, rock climbing at its best, for all you whiners and sissys out there. Easy-moderate.

The Spot
"Swisher Sweet" Starts low to pocket to 
"The Black Rider" you top it out, I am too scared.

Gum Springs
"Wounded Bee and Black Dog Roof" V5 Full Jump Start V6
Other easy climbs left, including "Meet the Ivy" warmups and others.
You'll see more to climb, too.

Beech Hollow
Steep, dangerous climbs.
We didn't do much. Beautiful area!


Other Areas Included...

Vulture City
The Beautiful Girl's Backyard
Lou Dean's Nest
And more


MISSOURI

A New Mountain
Numerous boulder problems, easy to hard. Secret area.

The Waterfall Area
"Doppelbock"
"Sweet Stout"
Relatively secret area

Sliver Mines
"The Spider" no rating
"The Block" unrated
Water's Edge Traverse

Mill Stream Gardens
The New Slabs Dan
Shark's Overhang
The Ground Is Higher
Big Scary Climb

Elephant Rocks
See Matt Bliss' guidebook Sandstone Warrior and respective projects
Consider in book
Consider numerous more projects
Great rock.





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